Brassiere



Patented Aug. 28, 1945 UNITso STATES; i yofi-'rici:--

BRASSIRE h Leonore Kaunit'lz, New York.y .Y Y.V y Application February15, 1344,' semina, y522,438 n (0.1.-2-42i l sciame.

This invention relates to brassires and has for its object the provision.of an article of this character by which smooth fit, exceptionalcomfort and satisfactory supporting action forthe breasts is'assured.

The. invention 'contemplates the provision of a brassire provided withbreast cups produced by suitably cutting and seaming a fabric in whichthe threadsare angularlyfdisposed, or in other words; the fabric isdisposed on the bias with respectto the vertical and horizontal strainsim posed' upon it. It is appreciated that a fabric section varranged sothat its threads are angular with respect to strains imposed upon it,will exe hibit expansibility and conformability, and I have utilizedthis characteristic in the design of the improved brassire, whereby thebreast cup will `exljiibit thetendency to shape itself to the contour ofthe breast-confined within it, forming by its own conformatorycharacteristics, a smooth fit over the breast while effectivelysupporting the same.

A further feature of the invention resides in the provision of seamingabove the breast cup, said seaming extending parallel to the threads ofthe fabric incorporated in the breast cup, and consequently beingrelatively inexpansible as contrasted to the expansibilityof the breastcup itself. As a result, the seaming, being properly situated withrespect to the oper'ative area of the cup, restrains the breast fromlateral spread,

' thus directing the breast int-c the cup wherein it is held in forwardand upward projection and is conformed to the desired contour.

In the accompanying drawing, wherein an illustrative embodiment of thelinvention is disclosed, Fig. l is a face view of the fabric sectionfrom which one of the breast cups of the garment is formed; Fig. 2 is aface View of the intermediate panel; Fig. 3 is a face View of the band;Fig. 4 is a front view of a portion of the brassire, showing theimproved construction, and Fig. 5 is a sectional ,View on the line 5-5of Fig. 4.

The section of fabric I from which one of the breast pockets of thebrassire is formed, is shown in Fig. 1, wherein it will be noted thatthe same is preferably made of a woven fabric so cut that its threadsare disposed on the bias with respect to the vertical and horizontallines of the garment. The intermediate panel 2 has its threads also onthe bias.

The shape of the breast section is clearly shown in Fig. -1, and itwillbe therein noted that this section is provided with side edges 3and, 4

'ther fabric and is thus resisted since these dirposd at rghtfangles toone another and meeting at the apex 2d lwhichr constitutes the point atwhich the shoulder strap is attached ras seen in Fig. 4. It will befurther'noted'that the disposition of these angular yedges 3 and 4 issuch that these edges'extend parallel to the threads of the fabric sothat any pull or strain exerted along these edgesis imposed on thestraight of edges are inexpansible.

The lower rportion .ofthe fabric section I is notched as indicated at S,and inthe manufac-l ture of the garment, the edges I and 8 of said notcharefstitohed togetheras at Slto form fthe section into cupped shape. Theedge 3 of the section Ir is seamed tothe edge 5 of the panel 2, andsince this seam unites the two straight edges 3 and 5 it is .actually astraight-line seam from the tipor point 24` to the lower edge of thegarment. However, when the seam 9 is formed, and the fabric section I isresultantly cupped, the seam 20 will appear curved as indicated in Fig.4, although actually produced by the joinder of two perfectly straightedges 3 and 5. When the fab ric sections I and 2 are thus joined, theedges I0, II and I4"of thesetwo sections co-operate to form the loweredge of the front portion of the .A brassire, as seen in Fig. 4.

It will be observed that when the parts are J'oined in the mannerdescribed, the edges 3, 4 and I3 are disposed parallel to the threads ofthe fabric sections on which these edges are formed, and therefore theseam 20 as well as the edges 4 and I3 are relatively inexpansible. Thefabric sections I and 2, on which these edges are located, are disposedon the bias, and thus these sections within the confines of the seams 20andv edges 4 and I3 are expansible and conformable to bustr contour.Thus, while the area of the breast' cup is expansible and conformable,as indicated by the` arrows in Fig. 1, to enable the cup, formed asabove described, to fully adapt itself to the contour of the breast withsufcient firmness to conform the breast to the desired shape,` themarginal parts of the breast cup, particularly the edges 4, I3 and thelseam 20, tend to prevent sidewise spread of the breast, and serveto'effectively direct and confine it within the cup.

At I5 is shown the back panel having its end I9 stitched to the straps25 and its forward edge I1 stitched as at 22 to the edge 2| of the panel2. The top edge I6 of the panel I5 .constitutes the top edge of thebrassire, forming a continuation of the edge I3y and the lower edge I8isa continuation ofthe lower edge I4 of the panel 2,

I have thus far described the construction of one-half of the brassire,the opposite half being similarly constructed, the two halves of thegarment being joined by having the edges I2 of the two sections Istitched together as at I2a, these edges being also gathered or gored asat 2B to provide fullness in the breast cup.

With the arrangement disclosed, the breast cups are formed of biasmaterial, enabling the cupsjto resiliently conform the breastsgand rmlysupport them without the imposition of undue pressure. Thus, while thebreasts are resiliently`l maintained, they are prevented from sidewisedisplacement or spread by the inelastic seaming 4,

I3 and 2U. It will be further observed that these inelastic elementsmeet at a single, pgoint of joinder, namely at the apex 2,4 where theshoulf v der strap 23 is attached, and thu's, while convr formation ofthe breast within the areaofuthe-V cup is had, sagging or drooping ofthese cups will d and extending downwardly on a 'curved linearound theside -margin of the .bust enclosedin the cup, said seam extendingcontinuously from the upper edge oftht-:brassireto'v its lower edge,said seam consisting of thek joinder of two edges of the two fabricsections, which edges have one set of the threads of at least one of thefabric sections disposed parallel to them, whereby said seam is disposedon the straight of the fabric of at least one of the two sections offabric united by it, said sections each having an upper edge n Vsectionsextending from a substantially center point on the bust cup portion atthe top of the same to a point to one side of the .center line of thebust cup at the lower edge of the garment,

the edges of the two sections joined by said seam having one set of thethreads of one of the sections extending parallel to the seam or "on thestraight of the goods in respect to the seam, the

vupper edges of the two fabric sections so joined extending divergentlyfrom the upperl centrallylocated end of the seam, said upper edges beingreinforced and being on the straight of the fabric of the sections.

3. In a brassire, a bust, pocket composed of two united pieces of fabrichaving their threads on the bias with respect to the axis of thegarment, the two pieces being joined by a vertical seam connectingtogether two edges of the pieces, said joined edges being parallel toone set of threads in at least one piece or "on the straight ofthefabric of that piece, Ithe top edges of the two pieces so united beingalso on the straight of the fabric, the vertical seam beginning at thecentral upper point of the bust pocket and extending downwardly to oneside` of the centralmedian line of the pocket and acting to restrainlateral spreading movement of the bust in the pocket.

- LEONORE KAUNITZ.

